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Five Bold Salvias for Summer-Long Color

Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’ is tall, beautiful and blooms effortlessly.

Ask any gardener what their favorite plant is, and you are sure to get multiple answers. Some of my favorites are in the genus Salvia. It offers a wide variety of garden plants with impressive flowers.  I have many containers scattered throughout my garden, and there are more pots planted with salvias than any other flowers.  When I say Salvia, I am not just referring to common bedding types, like mealycup sage. My favorites are bold, perennial everbloomers.

Though many of the varieties that I plant are technically perennial if we have a severe winter they may not survive. My philosophy is that the plants provided me with so much enjoyment that even if they die, they were worth it. Fertile soil with good drainage is essential for potted salvias, so I use Black Gold® Natural & Organic Potting Mix and often add Black Gold® Perlite as an added insurance for good drainage. Most also require full sun to thrive and bloom to their fullest.

Here are my top five favorite bold salvias that will bloom through summer. As an added bonus, all are very attractive to hummingbirds.

Anise-Scented Sage

Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’ has been a longtime favorit,  and we have had at least one pot on our deck for many years.  It begins blooming in May and continues until fall.  Often plants at garden centers will be in bud or bloom, and the flowering will continue until frost.  Cut the old flower stems back to prevent the plant from going to seed, which will increase flowering.  It is marginally winter hardy. In my yard, the stems die to the ground but often the roots will survive.

Salvia guaranitica ‘Amistad’ is similar in habit to ‘Black and Blue’ except the flowers are darker and more violet instead of blue.  It is a consistent bloomer just like ‘Black and Blue’.

Scarlet Sage

Scarlet sage comes in several colors other than red, including purple, white, pink, salmon, and peach.

The tender perennial Salvia splendens ‘Saucy Red’ has flowers that look ‘muddy red’, according to a friend visiting my garden. This might not sound like an attractive color, but the plant is spectacular when it comes into full bloom.  ‘Saucy Red’ blooms late in the season, and in my garden it does not begin flowering until late summer.  It has not been winter hardy where I live, but further south it will live from year to year. The tall ‘van houttei Peach’ is another recommended Salvia splendens variety with palest peach-pink flowers.

The Wish Salvias

Salvia ‘Embers Wish’ has brilliant blooms on tall plants. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Salvia ‘Embers Wish’ was a new salvia for me last year, and I am planting it again this year.  It has coral-red flowers that appear early and continue all summer.  It is a prolific bloomer and a vigorous plant, reaching 4-feet high. It received full sun in my garden, and the flowers did not fade.  The roots did survive the winter and new growth is now appearing. Salvia ‘Wendy’s Wish’ is almost exactly the same but it has violet-pink flowers.

Bolivian Hummingbird Sage

Bolivian hummingbird sage has very attractive fuzzy pink flowers. (Image by Scott Zona)

Bolivian hummingbird sage (Salvia oxophora) was also new to me last year, and the flowers look the least like a typical salvia. It also goes by the common name Fuzzy Bolivian Sage because the flowers have a fuzzy, almost velvety look.  It prefers some afternoon shade in areas where it is very hot.  It is not winter hardy and since I did not want to lose it, I took the pot into our garage during the cold weather. While the plant did not look so good when I took it outside this spring, I cut it back about half way and new healthy looking growth is appearing.

Texas Sage

Texas sage can really take high, summer heat.

Classic Texas sage (Salvia coccinea) is a tender perennial that has bright red flowers that bloom all summer and well into fall to feed migrating hummingbirds. There are also white and coral-pink varieties. Pinch back the old flowers of this heat-tolerant tender perennial to encourage more blooms.

Try any one of these salvias, and I do not think you will be disappointed. You’ll have colorful blooms all season and hummingbirds to spare.

California Wild Lilac for Western Gardens

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus is the most commonly cultivated species of California wild lilac. (Image by Kousvet)

It is difficult to think of another plant genus that has the diversity of violet-blue flowers as Ceanothus.  There are several species available to gardeners, but the most cultivated is Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10). Most are native to California and are sometimes referred to as California wild lilac, but there are some native to Oregon and the Pacific Northwest. Unlike true lilacs, which are in the olive family (Oleaceae), these shrubs are in the buckthorn family (Rhamnaceae). Although the growing requirements of different species and varieties are diverse, as a group, and in our Pacific Northwest climate, most will thrive with little care once established.  Generally, the crucial factor is providing them with well-drained soil.

California Wild Lilac Characteristics

An impressive Ceanothus hedge in full bloom.

Most Ceanothus bloom in spring and early summer with clusters of violet-blue flowers that range in color from light blue to sky blue to violet blue. The evergreen shrubs are generally not long-lived plants, surviving 10-15 years on average. In addition to their spectacular flowers, another attribute is that the plants fix nitrogen into the soil, and so planting them in the landscape helps improve soil nutrition. The flowers are also very attractive to honey bees, as well as native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.  They prefer full sun but can withstand light shade, and once established they do not need summer water. They are truly low-maintenance, easy-care plants for the garden.  Their growth habits are variable as there are some species that grow as ground covers and others that become large shrubs with heights reaching 10 to 12 feet.

These beautiful western natives require soil that is light and sandy or loamy with excellent drainage. They are not picky about soil pH. The addition of Black Gold Garden Soil at planting time will really help. Another benefit is that they are tolerant of salt spray but need to be protected from high winds. As the shrubs grow,  pruning is often required for space consideration. The important thing to remember is that pruning must be done after the plant has bloomed.

California Wild Lilac Varieties

Bees of all kinds love them flowers of Ceanothus!

Luckily for gardeners, the California wild lilac varieties are available at local garden centers and have continually become more available over the past few years. When purchasing one, be sure to check the plant label or ask a knowledgeable nursery person, since their growth habits are so variable.

One of the most popular and widely planted Ceanothus in the northwest is Ceanothus thyrsiflorus ‘Victoria’.  Originally found in Victoria, British Columbia, this shrub has glossy foliage and is good looking throughout the year. The flowers are sky blue and cover the plant from May to June and the shrubs will sometimes repeat bloom but are not as prolific as the first spring flowering. It is a tall shrub, in my garden reaching about 8 feet in height and almost as wide.

Ceanothus ‘Dark Star’ is one of the showiest hybrids with very small dark green foliage and a spreading habit (4 to 8 feet by 8 to 12 feet).  The flowers are deep cobalt blue and stand out against the dark green foliage. This is a spectacular specimen plant for the spring garden. The flowering season is usually in April.

For a ground cover, Ceanothus gloriosus ‘Point Reyes’ is hard to beat.  It will cover the ground densely with light-blue flowers in March.  This is an excellent plant for steep banks or slopes and will usually not get much taller than about 1 foot. It is tough and heat tolerant, so it is often planted in the ‘hell strip’ area between curbs and sidewalks.

New Jersey Tea is an eastern species that also grows well out west. (Image by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service)

Some eastern Ceanothus are also available for gardeners in this part of the country. New Jersy Tea (Ceanothus americanus) is a very hardy deciduous species that survives in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8 and can take partial shade. It has fragrant, white summer flowers that attract bees, and it only grows to 3- to 4-feet high. It is also tough and can be grown in the West.

Another for white flowers is Ceanothus cuneatus ‘Adair Village’, a cultivated variety of an Oregon native that has silver leaves and white flowers. It is fast growing, reaching about 8 feet at maturity, and requires no summer water.  It is also a great pollinator plant, honeybees love it.

This brief listing of Ceanothus is just a sampling of the many species and varieties that are available. The ‘Victoria’ in my garden has never had a pest problem.  I gave it supplemental water the first year and none thereafter.  Check out your local garden center for prime Ceanothus because this is an excellent time to plant them.

Western Riparian Trees for Wet Soils

Trees that naturally grow by waterways or riversides make good landscape trees for wet ground.

Do you have moist ground in your yard but want trees for the site? For a gardener with wet or damp soil, finding a tree that will thrive in such conditions can be challenging. When browsing through a garden center and reading the cultural requirement for many of the plants, probably one of the most common phrases will be “needs a location with good drainage”. Often when I give presentations to garden clubs, a very common question asked is what kind of trees are recommended for areas with wet soils.

When recommending trees for wet soils, I have tended to rely less on textbook comments and more on actual experience. While my own garden does not have this issue, I have visited many gardens with moisture problems. The following selection of trees for wet soils has been collected from talking with other gardeners and actually seeing these trees growing in yards and landscapes.

But, in general, trees adapted to wet soils tend to either be natural waterside trees or lowland trees that inhabit flood plains that become seasonally water saturated. These are called riparian trees, and they are worth seeking out when planning landscape plantings for damp ground. When planting these trees in the landscape, it is always wise to enrich the soil with a fertile amendment, like Black Gold® Garden Soil.

Trees for Wet Soils

Tupelo

The brilliant fall foliage of tupelo is one of its best features.

If I had to pick just one tree for an area with wet soil, it would be Nyssa sylvaticaCommonly called blackgum, sour gum, or Tupelo, it is a very hardy deciduous tree native to eastern North America, from southern Ontario to central Florida. Honey made from its flowers, appropriately called ‘Tupelo Honey’, is well known across the east, especially in northwest Florida. The trees are dioecious, meaning there are separate male and female trees that flower in late spring. Male trees have pollen-bearing flowers, while the female trees are fruit-bearing. Female trees develop small, bluish-black fruit if a male tree is close by for pollination. The olive-shaped fruits appear in small clusters, and while they can make a mess on a deck or driveway, birds like them.

The Tupelo is very well adapted to the Pacific Northwest and will reach a height of 35-50 feet. It is disease and insect resistant and makes an excellent shade tree.  However, the real attribute of the Tupelo is its spectacular fall color.  The simple leaves turn yellow and orange and then bright red before dropping. The red fall color is outstanding.

Alder

Alder naturally grow along watersides, right up to the edge!

Alder (Alnus spp.) is another group of trees that are moisture loving and fast growing. Red alder (Alnus rubra), is a riparian native from Alaska to northern California. It usually reaches about 50 feet and has attractive bark that is light gray. The dark green leaves are rust colored and hairy underneath.  European alder (Alnus glutinosa) is a non-native tree but one of the best for wet soils and can even survive standing water for a time.  A disadvantage of alders in our Pacific Northwest region is that they are prone to getting tent caterpillars in the summer.

Pacific Crabapple

The Pacific crabapple grows well in moist soil and has fragrant white spring flowers and edible fruits.

Native nurseries sometimes sell the Pacific crabapple (Malus fusca), which is a shrubby, small tree with fragrant white spring flowers and small yellow to purple-red fall apples that make delicious jams and jellies. In the wild, it survives along streamsides and moist woods, so it is perfect for lowland landscapes that are seasonally wet.

Willows

Plant weeping willows away from homes and give them plenty of space to grow.

Many willow (Salix spp.) trees will also tolerate wet soils and look attractive, though most are fast-growing and short-lived.  The Pacific Northwest native Hooker’s willow (Salix hookeriana) is a shrubby tree that can withstand high soil moisture and has attractive leathery leaves. White willow (Salix alba), which is native across much of North America, is not a tree for a small lot as it can reach 75-100-feet high and almost as wide.  The leaves are silvery beneath and often turn gold in the fall. Golden weeping willow (Salix alba ‘Tristis’), has young stems that are bright yellow and are often used in flower arrangements. Be aware that willows have shallow and invasive root systems and should not be planted near power or sewer lines. While a weeping willow is beautiful to look at, it needs lots of room.

Vine Maple

The fall leaves of vine maple are brilliant.

The Pacific-Northwest-native vine maple (Acer circinatum) has truly beautiful pale green leave with fall color of yellow, orange, and/or red. It is a small tree that rarely reaches heights above 20 feet. Several cultivated varieties have been bred, including the coral-red-stemmed Acer circinatum ‘Pacific Fire’, which has palm-shaped leaves that turn a rich yellow in fall.

If there is wet soil in your garden, others probably have similar issues. I like to advise gardeners to check around their neighborhood for yards with similar characteristics. Talk to other gardeners and look to see what trees they are growing. Most gardeners are usually very receptive about sharing plant information. Hearing what trees grow with success in your own neighborhood should give you some sound guidance.

Plant Nerd Night 2019

Come out and see Black Gold’s own Mike Darcy at Plant Nerd Night held on Friday, Mar 1, 2019, at 7:00 pm at the Lake Bible Church, 4565 Carman Drive, Lake Oswego, Oregon. Doors open at 6:00 pm and the event ends at 9:00 pm.

This free annual event is presented by the Hardy Plant Society of Oregon, and it’s a plant nerd’s dream! It features representatives from six regional specialty nurseries previewing and selling many of their new and favorite plants. This event sells out quickly, so get their early.

Dwarf Conifers for All-Season Beauty

A dwarf white spruce shows off its winter cones.

Dwarf conifers are often overlooked as both landscape or container plants.  In recent years there have been many new cultivars of dwarf conifers that have been developed to be super compact and slow growing. These make superb garden specimens that will shine all year long, especially in the winter months.

Dwarf Conifers Defined

There are lots of different dwarf conifers available at nurseries these days.

There has been some confusion, for both the retailer and the consumer, regarding the true definition of a dwarf conifer.  To help eliminate this confusion, and to establish some parameters for growth that a homeowner would understand, the American Conifer Society has established two size categories, dwarf and intermediate.  Dwarf conifers grow very slowly to a final height of 1-2 feet in ten years.  Intermediate conifers, while not technically a dwarf,  are compact and can easily be worked into landscapes or containers without becoming large trees.  An intermediate conifer will grow up to 12 inches annually and can be selectively pruned to maintain a smaller shape.

Dwarf Conifer Care

In my own garden, I have many containers with dwarf conifers, and they have become an important part of my patio display.  They provide an evergreen appearance throughout the year and tolerate our summer and winter conditions.  Most grow best in full to partial sun, however, read plant tag information regarding sun/shade requirements whenever you purchase a new conifer, so it Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix.  I have found that it provides the fertility and good drainage that most conifers need.

Favorite Dwarf Conifers

It is always difficult to make a list of favorite plants, but I have carefully chosen select dwarf conifers for my garden. Here are some of my garden favorites along with a few other garden-worthy selections.

Korean Fir

Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’) is one of my favorite dwarf conifers. (Image by Mike Darcy)

Two of my favorites are Korean firs (Abies koreana).  The first is the conical golden Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Aurea’), which has needles that are lemon yellow and quite attractive when in a bed with a background of green foliage. This intermediate conifer grows very slowy but can reach a final height of 8 feet or more. The second is the silver dwarf Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’), which has needles that slightly curl around the stem to reveal blue-green needles with silver-white undersides.  It is also an intermediate conifer but is easily kept small by pruning. I have to admit that the ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ is my favorite. It gets many comments from garden visitors.

Japanese Plum Yew

Spreading Japanese plum yew is one of the best compact conifers for low coverage in beds. (Image by Jessie Keith)

A conifer with beautiful upturned needles and a low, spreading habit is spreading Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Prostrata’). It creates perfect evergreen cover where a low grower is needed, and it performs best when given afternoon shade. Another choice variety is ‘Korean Gold’, with its beautiful lemon-yellow needles with dark green undersides. It is a real attention getter in the garden

Hinoki Cypress

Dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’) always looks good in a sunny garden spot.

Dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’) has dense, lush, green fans of foliage and a very compact habit (3-6 feet when mature). Another cultivar that provides an interesting contrast of colors is the white tipped dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Snowkist’).  This is considered a dwarf conifer, and its outstanding feature is dark green foliage with creamy white variegated tips.  It has a globe shape and will not get much larger than 3-4 feet.

Hemlocks

For something with a weeping shape, consider weeping western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylia ‘Thorsen’s Weeping’).  It is very small and slow growing; in only 10 years it will reach just 1 foot.  It has a weeping shape and can be staked to form a fountain effect or left alone to weep over the side of a pot.

Spruces

The classic bird’s nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’) always remains low and tidy.

There are many compact spruces (Picea spp.) available that are perfect for containers and small spaces. The classic bird’s nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’) is a low grower that has a tidy nest-like habit. It grows very slowly, reaching 2-feet high and several feet wide in 10 years. The bushy dwarf Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pumila’) is comparable but is rounded and does not spread. Another to try is the conical Daisy’s White spruce (Picea glauca ‘Daisy’s White’), a gem with creamy white new growth that darkens to blue-green by summer. It is very slow growing and gets to just 3 feet after 10 years.

Due to smaller lot sizes and with more people living in apartments and condominiums, many garden centers have increased their selection of dwarf conifers.  Check with your local garden center and you may be very surprised at the choices available.

The Best Fragrant House Plants

Orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata)

In the Pacific Northwest, where our winter days are often rainy and overcast, (some would say dark and gloomy), it is a bonus to have an indoor environment where plants grow and thrive. If the plants also have fragrant blooms, it’s even nicer.

The limiting factor for most of these floriferous house plants is the lack of adequate light, so if a spot in a sun room or near a bay window is available that would be ideal. I also refer to these plants as being double-duty, because they can be outdoors in the summer and then brought indoors for the winter. Most of the bloomers on this list have white or ivory flowers that are naturally moth pollinated and exude their most powerful fragrance at night.

Gardenia

Gardenia

There is a wide assortment of gardenias (Gardenia spp.) to chose from, with some being quite winter hardy here in the western part of the Pacific Northwest. I have had Gardenia ‘Frostproof’ (Gardenia jasminoides Frostproof’) for several years, and it blooms outside for most of the summer. While the flowers are small, they have the typical gardenia fragrance. I leave my plant outdoors, but it could also be a winter blooming house plant. Gardenia ‘Mystery’ (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Mystery’) is a double-flowered variety used by florists, and if given an indoor location with lots of light, it will make a very nice house plant.

Dwarf Citrus

Citrus blossoms are wonderfully fragrant and you can’t beat the fruits!

Dwarf citrus (Citrus spp.) are excellent choices for double-duty plants. Meyer lemon is probably the most widely planted, and if placed in a container of adequate size, it can live for many years. Citrus like heat and can be outside in full sun during the summer and then brought indoors for the winter. Meyer lemon will bloom with fragrant white flowers throughout the year and will also bear lemons at a fairly young age. If the plant has been outdoors all summer, spray it thoroughly with water before bringing it inside to wash off any insects that might be present. Be sure to bring the plant indoors before a frost. (Click here to learn more about growing indoor citrus.)

Pink Jasmine

Pink jasmine, (Jasminum polyanthum)

Another house plant is pink jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum). The vine produces masses of fragrant, star-like flowers that are reddish-pink on the outside, white on the inside, and intensely fragrant. This is a fairly reliable bloomer that flowers through most of the late winter and early spring. It is a fast grower and needs a small trellis for its twining stems to climb. Trim it regularly to keep it check.

Orange Jasmine

Orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) is a compact plant with waxy white flowers that have an orange-blossom fragrance. Young plants start blooming early on. This is an easy-to-grow house plant that blooms reliably.

Madagascar Jasmine

Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda, image by Scott Z.)

Often used in wedding bouquets because of its intensely fragrant white flowers, Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda) is best grown as a house plant in cold climates. The vigorous evergreen vine needs something to twine up and likes humidity, so mist it on a regular basis. If given enough light, it will bloom indoors during the winter. The fragrance of the flowers will easily fill a room.

Pinwheelflower

Gardenia Crape Jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides), white flowers with green leaves

Like many of the other house plants listed, pinwheelflower (Tabernaemontana divaricata) has fragrant white flowers and evergreen foliage. The tender shrub is native to Southeast Asia but grows very well indoors in pots. It blooms the most in spring but may produce additional flowers throughout the year. The waxy white, blooms are most fragrant at night.

Over watering and poor drainage are common reasons for these house plants to diminish. Planting them in a premium potting mix that drains well will help ensure growing success. My mix of choice is premium Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix. It has ingredients to help with drainage in addition to added fertilizer that lasts for up to six months. Start a regular fertilization regime several months after potting.

In addition to giving them plenty of light, keep your plants away from dry heat sources, such as heating vents or a fireplace, as this will stress the plants and their foliage. Once your fragrant house plants start to bloom, you will be glad you planted them. Their flowers and scent brighten dreary winter days, making the indoors just a little more enjoyable.

Fantastic Fall Anemones for the Garden

Here it is October in the Pacific Northwest, and cool moist weather is upon us after a hot and dry summer. The recent rains and cool temperatures are a welcome relief to many plants (as well as to myself).  Many summer annuals are still performing, and the hardy fuchsias and dahlias will continue to flower heavily up until frost. This is also the time when the fall-blooming anemones, such as Japanese anemones and other fall types, look their best.

Japanese Anemones

The Chinese Anemone hupehensis has single pink-, white-, or rose-colored flowers.

Fall-blooming anemones are sometimes overlooked and under planted.  While there are several different species, by far the most common and widely planted is the Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis var. japonica)Despite its name, the “Japanese” anemone is not actually native to Japan, but it comes from China.  Wide cultivation in Japan led to the escape of this plant into the wild. The wild Chinese species Anemone hupehensis has tall, airy, single flowers of purple, purple-red, pink, or white, that may bloom from later summer to fall. Anemone hupehensis var. japonica differs in that its flowers are semi-double to double.

Chinese Anemones

Other Asian fall-blooming anemones include the Chinese windflower (Anemone tomentosa), which has white hairs on its leaf undersides and tall, five-petaled, white or pinkish flowers that bloom from late summer to fall. Another Chinese native is the grapeleaf anemone (Anemone vitifolia), which has grape-like green leaves and white or purplish flowers that bloom from late summer to fall. Many popular “Japanese” anemones are actually hybrids of Anemone hupehensis, A. vitifolia, and A. tomentosa, and commonly referred to as A. x hybrida variants.

Fall Anemone Varieties

The white-flowered ‘Honorine Jobert’ has large single blooms. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Here in the Pacific Northwest, the most common are white-flowering Japanese anemones, with the large-flowered ‘Honorine Jobert’ (A. x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’) being the best. It usually comes into flower in late August or early September and continues into October.  Because of its late-blooming habit, it makes an excellent addition to the fall garden with the bright white flowers being a focal point in the evening  Over the years, it will form large clumps with its fibrous, spreading roots.  It is best grown in a spot that is protected from the hot midday summer sun, but if given too much shade, its stems will be floppy.

The large, rose-pink, double flowers of ‘Prinz Heinrich’ are really impressive! (Image by Jessie Keith)

For a semi-double white Japanese anemone, look for the cultivar ‘Whirlwind’ (A. x hybrida ‘Whirlwind’). Two more impressive doubles are the rose-pink ‘Pamina’ (Anemone hupehensis var. japonica ‘Pamina’) and larger-flowered rose-pink ‘Prinz Heinrich’ (A. hupehensis var. japonica ‘Prinz Heinrich’). All are available at more specialized garden centers, and their impressive flowers make them well worth growing. Another common variety is the single pink (A. x hybrida ‘Robustissima’), which can bloom into November. All of these plants spread laterally over time to create substantial clumps, so give them plenty of space.

Growing Fall Anemones

Anemones like humus-rich soil, and Black Gold Garden Compost Blend is an ideal medium to add at planting time or as a winter mulch.  Even though anemones like evenly moist soil, they also need good drainage, and compost provides moisture retention, aeration, and facilitates drainage.  After plants have finished flowering, cut them back to ground level and divide them, if necessary.

These fall-blooming beauties prefer full to partial sun and are very easy to grow in our Pacific Northwest climate, and once established, plants will continue to spread. I would not consider them invasive because they are easy to control.  If you see some plantings in your neighborhood, perhaps a neighbor would be willing to share.  It is hard to think of a more reliable fall-blooming perennial.

I always have a difficult time removing summer annuals that are still performing, but the appearance of fall perennials like anemones makes it easier.  They bring the season lots of color and beauty just before the garden offers its farewell.

Large single pink flowers grace ‘Robustissima’ fall-blooming anemone.

 

Beautyberry for Bountiful Fall Color

Branches laden with bright purple berry clusters can be a very pleasant surprise to those unaware of the virtues of beautyberry (Callicarpa spp.).  These berries  provide a bright spot of color, especially in the autumn garden when the color performance of many shrubs is over.

Beautyberry Origins

There are more than a dozen species of Callicarpa, however only a few are readily available to at plant nurseries.  Most often referred to as beautyberry, most species are native to China and other parts of Asia, but Callicarpa americana is a native of the southern and eastern United States. All grow and flower best in full to partial sun and prefer soil with average fertility and good drainage.

Beautyberry Varieties

The leaves of Bodinier’s beautyberry develop a burnished or yellow color before falling in autumn.

Here in the Pacific Northwest, the most widely planted variety is the Chinese Bodinier’s beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii  ‘Profusion’, USDA Hardiness Zone 6-8).  This is recommended because it is a heavy bearer of bright purple berries.  In the spring the new leaves are tinged with bronze as they first appear, and the branches become lined with clusters of tiny lavender flowers. In my garden, it tends to be a bit of a gangly grower, reaching up to 7 feet tall and almost as wide. Select pruning of the tallest, most overgrown branches will keep it in check.

I also have a  white Japanese beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica ‘Leucocarpa’, USDA Hardiness Zone 5-8), which has white flowers and berries and is a slightly smaller shrub (4-6 feet) than Bodinier’s beautyberry.  In the autumn, as the foliage of ‘Leucocarpa’ begins to turn yellow and brown, the clusters of white berries create quite a color contrast.

The spring flowers of beautyberry are pale lavender to pink.

There are new varieties Callicarpa that have been developed to offer colorful foliage and a compact growth habit.  Variegated Japanese beautyberry (C. japonica ‘Snow Storm’, USDA Hardiness Zone 6-8), is a good example with leaves that are white at the beginning of the season and then becoming mottled with green as they develop.  Unlike the gangly ‘Profusion’, ‘Snow Storm’ is a tidy, mounding shrub to 3 to 4 feet that is desirable for small gardens or containers.  It has pink flowers and purple berries.

The American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana, USDA Hardiness Zone 6-10) is a larger shrub (6-9 feet) with a more informal, long, arching, open branches and of looser bright purple berry clusters. Plant it in more informal landscape settings.

Beautyberry Lore

The leaves of American beautyberry naturally repel mosquitoes.

Sometimes I marvel at what we do for our plants and what our plants do for us. I find it fascinating to read folklore about plant attributes and then test the folklore in real life.  The American Beautyberry poses a good example of how lore can help today’s gardeners.

In the early part of the 20th century, farmers in northeastern Mississippi discovered that placing fresh crushed leaves of Callicarpa americana under the harness of draft animals, like horses and mules, helped keep biting insects away.  This practice became known throughout the region, and people began crushing leaves on their own skin to keep mosquitoes away. People stopped using American Beautyberry with the dawn of insect sprays, so this practice was almost forgotten until recently. Recent research found Mosquito Bite Deterrent chemicals were present in the leaves of these plants. In fact, they showed significant repellent activity against mosquitoes.  Maybe this could be called ‘folklore becomes reality’.

Two years ago I conducted my own experiment with a neighbor that is interested in botanicals for medicinal purposes. We both rubbed leaves of my Bodinier’s beautyberry on our arms to see if they would repel mosquitoes. Sorry to report that the mosquitoes landed on both of us, because I had not realized that the mosquito repelling properties were from C. americana and not my variety!

Visit your local garden center this fall season and check out their selection of berried Callicarpa.  By making your purchase now, you are assured of getting the berry color that you want!  With the long and hot dry summer we have had, be sure to amend the soil with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend before planting, and water thoroughly.    

Eight Best Flowering House Plants

Moth orchids are one of the easiest orchids to grow!

House plants have made a resurgence in popularity over the past several years and the trend shows no signs of diminishing.  On a recent visit to a large Portland garden center that had just finished their annual January house plant sale, the manager told me it was the best one they have ever had. By the end of the first weekend, they were almost sold out.  Throughout the sale, restocking was continuous.

Some customers buy house plants for the flowers and others buy them for the foliage.  Of course, it is a bonus if you can have both flowers and attractive foliage. Also, many flowering house plants bloom in winter when color is most desired.

Like any plant, whether grown indoors or outdoors, good soil is essential.  Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix is an ideal potting mix for most indoor plants, except for orchids where orchid bark is recommended for epiphytic (tree-dwelling) orchids and Black Gold Orchid Mix is recommended for terrestrial (ground dwelling) orchids.

Flowering Kalanchoe

Flowering Kalanchoe

You will love the bright and colorful flowers of flowering kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). You may not recognize this popular house plant by the name, but once you see it, you will know it.  Its succulent green leaves sometimes have scalloped edges that make this plant attractive, even without flowers.  And, its small, brightly colored blooms of pink, orange, red, or yellow appear in clusters above the leaves.

Clivia

Clivia

Clivia (Clivia miniata) is a member of the amaryllis family and produces clusters of large, orange, funnel-shaped flowers.  Sometimes Clivia may have yellow flowers but orange is the most common.  The strap-shaped leaves can be up to 2 feet long and are usually about 2 inches wide and very dark green.  Clivia will bloom best if the roots are crowded in the pot.

Bird of Paradise

Bird-of-Paradise

For large pots try the 5- to 7-foot bird-of-paradise (Strelitzia reginae). It is like Clivia in that it blooms best with crowded roots.  It is named for its large, unusual flowers that look much like the head of a crested bird. The primarily orange flowers have highlights of blue and magenta and appear on long stems, making them excellent for cutting. (The cut flowers last a long time in the vase.) It’s bold, tropical leaves are dark green, often with a blue-green tint.  Fertilize this one often.

Dwarf Citrus

Chinotto sour orange

Dwarf citrus trees come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are popular because their flowers are so fragrant.  If they actually set fruit, that is an added bonus.  For a ‘starter’ citrus, I would suggest the Meyer lemon (Citrus limon ‘Meyer’) as it seems to adapt to being indoors better than some others.  Another one to try is Chinotto sour orange (Citrus x aurantium ‘Chinotto’), which is compact, grows slowly, and bears clusters of sour orange fruits.

Citrus of all kinds do require plenty of light or they will get very leggy.  Take them outside in the summer, and clean them up before you bring them indoors in fall, (Click here to learn how to clean house plants in fall before bringing them indoors.) and they will thank you! (Click here to learn more about growing Citrus indoors here.)

Night Blooming Jasmine

Night blooming jasmine

Night blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum) has a very powerful fragrance, and as the name implies, it is a night bloomer.  Grow this evergreen vine on a window sill, and prune it hard after bloom to encourage new growth and flowers.  The attractive small flowers tend to be greenish white, but it is the fragrance that attracts one to this plant.

Orchids

Moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) (Image by Jessie Keith)

Orchids are flowering plants that are available in not only garden centers but in many grocery stores.  There is a huge selection available as to flower color, shape, and size.  Orchids are popular because the flowers last for a long time, often over several months. (Click here to learn more about how to grow orchids.)

Gardenia

Gardenia

Gardenia (Gardenia spp.) is another blooming plant with an intense fragrance that is most aromatic at nighttime.  If you have enough light to grow citrus in your house, you can probably grow gardenia.  These evergreen shrubs have shiny leaves, and the flowers are pure ivory.  Gardenia ‘Mystery’ has large, white, double flowers that bloom over a long blooming period.  Keep gardenias pruned regularly or they will become rangy.

Lipstick Plant

Lipstick vine

The vine-like lipstick plant (Aeschynanthus radicans) is a very easy houseplant to grow, and it looks great in a location where it can trail.  Its tubular flowers are red and the stems cascade downward.  It has a long blooming period and will tolerate low light.

House plants brighten the home, especially those with impressive flowers. It is always fun to try a new house plant, so I encourage people to experiment with something they have not grown before.  Many can be taken outdoors during the summer, to improve the looks of the garden, porch, or patio.

Making Space for Gardening: The Portland Community Garden Story

Gardeners in an Oregon community garden harvest late-season vegetables. (Image by Dawn Grunwald)

Throughout the United States, urban community gardens have become a common thread that helps bring communities together, in cities large and small. Most community gardens have similar goals. In addition to supplying families with fresh produce, they encourage physical activity, provide needed green space, and a relaxed way to meet your neighbor.

No matter where it is, there is a standard template for community garden programs. Basically, a city sets aside a certain area of land, which is sectioned into plots and then offered to the residents of the community for a small fee to use for a garden. And, cities with such programs find that they are hugely successful. It’s harder for city dwellers to grow vegetables—with more people living in apartments or condominiums, homes being on smaller lots, and shade from trees and other dwellings preventing the opportunity. A community garden can fill the gardening niche and provide residents with vegetable garden plots that are often a relatively short distance from their homes.

The Portland Community Garden Story

Each garden plot can be personalized by the gardener. (Image by Dawn Grunwald)

Portland, Oregon was an early player in the community garden movement with its program beginning in 1975. Today, Portland has 52 community gardens throughout the city, with some gardens having wait lists of three years. Through community gardening, they strive to give people across the city the opportunity to grow fresh food, regardless of race, age, or income. The cost and size of a plot can vary, but most are nominally priced. A standard Portland plot of about 200 square feet is $57.  This cost includes water. If money is an issue, the city has a scholarship assistance program.

Portland’s many diverse community gardens are well planned and maintained. There is a water faucet near enough to water every plot and free wood chips are often offered to mulch pathways (wood chips bind nitrogen, so they are not recommended for mulching vegetable plants). Most community gardens, including this one, are 100% organic, which means no chemical sprays or non-organic soil amendments or fertilizers are allowed. Garden mulch and/or compost must be brought into the plots by the individual gardener. Most gardeners begin their cool-season crop planting in mid to late March. Warm season crops, like tomatoes and squash, are planted at the end of May.

Friends of Portland Community Gardens

Volunteers help the efforts of community gardens. (Image by Dawn Grunwald)

To further support community gardening efforts in Portland, the Friends of Portland Community Gardens was formed. Founded in 1986, the volunteer organization was initially created because budget cuts threatened the City of Portland’s Community Gardens program. Not only does their presence ensure that this important resource remains available to members of the Portland community, but they strive to “Empower gardeners to make the most of their community garden plots by providing communal supplies such as compost and tools.” The nonprofit also offers programming to help new gardeners succeed.

A Model for Other Communities

Irrigation water and wood chips are provided by Portland community gardens. (Image by Dawn Grunwald)

This community garden success story can provide a model for other cities. Most community gardens are overseen by a city government department, usually the Parks and Recreation Department. As one might imagine, the prospect of overseeing this many gardens could be overwhelming, which is why a strong volunteer program is essential.

Other communities around Portland have adopted the model. Portland’s adjoining suburb, Lake Oswego (population 40,000), also has one very active community garden program with 180 plots, with an average plot size of 20 x 20 feet and a yearly cost of $85. The garden is at 100% capacity for 2018, but there are usually some dropouts. The Community Garden Coordinator, Dawn Grunwald, told me that she keeps a wait list of those wanting a plot, and she begins calling at the end of January if there are vacant plots available.

Usually, there is an individual contact at each garden to oversee the site, but it is the individual gardeners that maintain each plot. It should be of no surprise that the biggest maintenance issue is that of weeds. Unmaintained gardens are often reassigned after a considerable period of neglect to keep weed seeds out of fellow gardener’s plots. Dawn said, “If someone neglects a plot or fails to plant it, I ask them to let it go.  If they want to keep it, we work with them to try to get it back in shape and perhaps suggest they get a smaller plot the following year.”

Growing Solutions for Community Gardeners

Since many gardeners start their own seeds at home and plant the seedlings in the spring, it’s smart for them to choose a mix that will yield great results. OMRI Listed Black Gold Seedling Mix is an ideal seed-starting medium to use. To prepare the garden plot prior to planting, gardeners can add Black Gold Garden Compost Blend or Earthworm Castings Blend, which are also OMRI Listed. Quality compost and castings are good additions for improving soil moisture, aeration, and drainage.

I asked Dawn what the Oswego community gardeners do with their excess produce, and she said they have boxes out for people to share their extra vegetables. Deliveries are also made to local food banks and other service organizations. So, community gardens help the larger community, too. [Click here to learn more about ways to share your produce!]

From talking with gardeners from other cities, it appears the community garden programs are vibrant and very popular. Even if you do not have a community garden plot, volunteers are always welcome and are rewarded with good growing tips and fresh produce.